Cummings Jack Kerouac Mary Oliver Jackson Pollock Willem de Kooning and, perhaps most important, Henry Beston, whose 1928 book, The Outermost House, brought attention to the sheer wild beauty among the sweeping dunes. Other artists and writers soon followed and never stopped: Harry Kemp, known as the “poet of the dunes” E.E. He bought a dune shack, hunkered down in the silence, and set out to write Anna Christie and The Hairy Ape, two of his most famous works. “A grand place to be alone and undisturbed,” is how the playwright Eugene O’Neill described the Province Lands in 1919. I galloped up the sand to find a stretch just like it all around me, an expansive brown landscape that seemed like another galaxy away from Provincetown’s crowded center but in reality was only a few miles from the souvenir shops, bars, and restaurants. I arrived without a plan or a map, venturing along a short path that cut through a thick forest, which eventually led me to the base of a large dune. Which is how on a weekday afternoon, I parked at the Snail Road access trail off Route 6 in Provincetown and began walking. As public use of the Seashore takes many forms, so does work to protect the area. An empty beach, a quiet forest, an endless expanse of sand and weather-beaten shacks. But there was another Cape, he told me-one you could find if you were willing to trek off the touristed path.
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